Caroline Tonna | The societal idealisation of the female body

Could you tell us about your trajectory as a writer or researcher?

My research work began during my undergraduate years (2005-2008) studying Anthropology at the University of Malta. Under the mentorship of Dr Victoria Sultana, a medical anthropologist, I delved into a cultural study of the societal idealisation of the female body.

Subsequently, my academic interests expanded into the fascinating realm of Art and Art History (2010-2013). Employing critical thinking and new methologies, I conduced in-depth analyses of specific objects and images within an art historical context. My research focused on artistic collaboration between prolific painters Giuseppe Cali (1846-1930), Edward (1876-1950) and Robert Caruana Dingli (1882-1940), and professional photographers Ugo Cali (active in the early twentieth century) and Richard Ellis (1842-1924). This scholarly exploration not only deepened my understanding of how painters responded to the influence of photography but also enhanced my analytical abilities and broadened my perspective on artistic collaboration.

My passion for the history of photography persisted, particularly with a keen focus on period dress. For my master's degree in Art and Art history, I delved into an extensive analysis of a corpus of black and white studio portraits, possibly the earliest works of a professional studio photographer, Leandro Preziosi (1830-1869). The research I presented was a meticulous examination of these portraits, shedding light on the emergence of photography as a novel form of visual expression. The portraits demonstrate how early photography captured the sitters adorned in their finest dresses and accessories, not only showcasing their wealth, sophistication and status in society but also revealing a conscious effort to protect their individual identities and aspirations.  

I am indebted to Professor Mario Buhagiar, my supervisor, whose unwavering support encouraged me to pursue innovative avenues within the realms of Art and Art History to explore the link between the art of photography and the art of dress in Malta.

Overtime, I had the opportunity to share my research findings through academic papers, presentations and contributions to public lectures.  My work spanned on various topics in relation to early photography and dress history. A significant milestone in my academic journey was the publication of my research in the book: ‘Society Fashion in Malta:  the portrait photography of Leandro Preziosi (1830-1869)’ by Fondazzjoni Patrimonju Malti in 2022.

What was the process of crafting your award-winning book like?

The experience was incredibly fulfilling as my work underwent rigorous evaluation by an impartial adjudication board for Malta’s most esteemed literary prize, which is made available annually to authors, editors, translators, publishers, and illustrators of books published in Malta. In 2023, my book was shortlisted to the finalist stage in the category of ‘ricerka bijografica u storjografica’ in 2023.  To my pleasant surprise, I was honoured in my name and on behalf of the publishers, Fondazzjoni Patrimonju Malti, the ‘Premju ghall-ahjar produzzjoni ta’ ktieb bl-isbah dehra’. This award underscored the recognition of the significance of the research and its presentation.

How did it feel to win the National Book Prize in 2023?

The award served as recognition for the collective effort of all those involved in bringing the book to fruition. While the written and visual content stemmed from years of my research, its transformation into an appealing and high-quality publication owed much to the contributions of several individuals in the publication. 

Dr Giovanni Bonello, as editor, played a crucial role in writing the foreword of the book, while Michelle Galea, Associate Editor, provided valuable proofreading and suggestions throughout the process. Giulia Privitelli and Caroline Camilleri also provided their input and expertise.  Michael Lowell’s creative direction, coupled with Lisa Attard’s design and layout, ensured the book’s visual appeal and coherence. The production, Fondazzjoni Patrimonju Malti, the services provided by Midsea Books and the printing by Gutenberg Press Ltd, Malta were instrumental in turning this project into reality.

Upon receiving the award, I accepted it on behalf of  all of those directly involved in the production of the book as well as the numerous individuals who supported me in achieving this milestone, including my family.  It was a testament to the collaborative spirit and dedication that underpinned the project from inception to completion. 

Who are some of your favourite Maltese authors working today?

I particularly like the outstanding works of Clare Azzopardi, the notable Maria Grech Ganado and long-time friend Charles Flores.

How did Leandro Preziosi’s meticulous photographic compositions not only capture the essence of fashion but also serve as a reflection of societal norms and aspirations among the elite in mid-nineteenth-century Malta?

Leandro Preziosi emerged as a highly skilled photographer during the second half of the nineteenth century in Malta, capturing the elite society through his lens.  His photographic studio became a sought-after location for those who could afford the luxury of having their portraits taken. 

These portraits immortalized the image of his sitters and they also served as invaluable visual documentation of fashion trends prevalent during that era. The thorough examination of these photographs provided an insight into the intricacies of fabrics, trimmings, accessories and jewellery adorning the sitters.  Moreover, supplementary materials such as supporting documents and surviving costume enrich our understanding of the social norms and aspiration of the sitters. 

During the inception of photography, when it was a privilege mainly accessible to well to do families, visiting a photographic studio was a special experience for the sitter.  Within the studio’s confines, the sitter relished the opportunity to be the centre of attention, as the photographer directed the sitter to a conventional pose.  The sitter had the opportunity to portray one’s own appearance and identity through a performative role, carefully selecting the appropriate attire, striving to achieve the desired portrait photograph that reflected the idealized self-image. 

The portraits from this period offer insights into the increase in consumption of dress and embellishments, resulting in the expansion of fabrics and clothing goods shops. Photography played an important role in the dissemination of fashion trends. Many photographs were reproduced in carte-de-visite format, serving as miniature visiting cards to be placed in family albums and distributed to friends. 

Analysing the dress detail depicted in these photographs unveils the social correctness and modesty standards, alongside individual desires for luxurious fabrics and refined fashionable clothing. Each image encapsulates the intricate balance between conforming to social expectations and expressing personal aspirations for elegance and sophistication.

What’s next for you?

I look ahead with excitement to continue exploring new avenues of researching, writing and displaying our national heritage in dress. A notable recent collaborative project with Francesca Balzan culminated in ‘Curious Beauty:  An Innovative Costume Exhibition’ hosted at Palazzo Falson by Fondazzjoni Patrimonju Malti.  We meticulously selected over 150 surviving period costumes and accessories,  presenting them thematically as art installations within the richly decorated rooms of the historic house museum. The exhibition has a playful spirit, captivating the visitors with an immersive experience. It was a unique experience, and it has fueled my inspiration to embark on further artistic endeavours in the near future.  I am driven with passion to continue exploring innovative ways to celebrate our dress history.   

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In collaboration with the National Book Council, MaltaToday will be interviewing the winners of the 2023 National Book Prize and Terramaxka Prize for children and young adults. More information regarding the awards can be found at ktieb.org.mt/