A timeless dining experience at Contessa

It was a Wednesday afternoon, the kind of midweek day that calls for a little indulgence. My friends and I had taken the day off from work, deciding to treat ourselves to something a bit fancy—a leisurely lunch at Contessa at The Phoenicia Malta. From the moment we stepped into the restaurant, it felt like we’d stumbled upon something special—more than just a place to eat, but a destination where time slows down, elegance reigns, and every bite is a celebration.

Set within the historic Phoenicia Malta, Contessa is the reimagined version of the legendary award-winning Phoenix restaurant, and it carries itself with a level of grace and class that’s hard to find in the world of dining today. It’s as if the spirit of Countess Strickland, the hotel’s co-founder, still lingers in the air—guiding every detail, from the food to the service, with a timeless elegance. Dining here isn’t just about the food; it’s about the experience, the kind that leaves a lasting impression long after the plates are cleared.

The atmosphere strikes you first. As we were shown to our table, I couldn’t help but admire the restaurant’s effortless sophistication. The iconic dining room whispers of old-world charm, with its refined décor and sense of history, while the modern glass conservatory offers a lighter, more playful setting—perfect for a leisurely lunch. It felt like we were sitting in a little oasis of luxury, with time to savour each moment.

But let’s talk about the food—because, at Contessa, the food is nothing short of an art form. The chefs here have taken the finest local ingredients and elevated them to new heights, combining traditional Southern Mediterranean flavours with contemporary creativity. The menu operates on a sharing concept, which is great news for those of us who don’t like to choose between equally tempting options.

We started with the marinated octopus niçoise, a fresh take on the classic salad that took me by surprise. The octopus was tender and packed with flavour, paired perfectly with the zingy acidity that balanced the dish. Then came the rabbit porchetta with carrots and mustard—a dish that managed to feel both rustic and sophisticated at the same time. The rabbit was juicy and flavourful, the carrots sweet and earthy, and the mustard brought just enough bite to keep things interesting.

As we moved to the mains, the meal only got better. The risotto with lemon, parsley, and Sardinian bottarga di muggine was a creamy yet light revelation. Risotto can be heavy, but this dish had the perfect brightness from the lemon, making it feel indulgent but not over-the-top. The brown rice casarecce with stracciatella and pistachio pesto was equally impressive. The creamy stracciatella, combined with the rich, nutty pistachio pesto, created a dish that was as decadent as it was balanced.

Of course, we couldn’t resist trying the Entrecôte steak with béarnaise sauce and fries—a classic that every restaurant should get right. And get it right they did. The steak was cooked to perfection, tender and juicy, while the béarnaise sauce added that buttery richness you hope for. The fries, crisp and golden, were the perfect sidekick to the star of the show.

Dessert, though, was where the real theatre began. The Marsala tiramisu, prepared tableside on a gleaming dining trolley, was not just a dessert but an event. Watching it come together before our eyes—rich mascarpone mingling with ladyfingers and a hint of Marsala wine—felt like the perfect finale to our meal. Light yet indulgent, with just enough sweetness and a boozy kick, it was the kind of dessert that leaves you smiling long after the last spoonful.

What really sets Contessa apart, though, isn’t just the food (although it’s hard to stop talking about it). It’s the whole experience—the atmosphere, the service, the way everything just feels so polished yet warm. The staff were attentive without being intrusive, and every detail felt cared for, like we were their most important guests.

The best part? Contessa is open daily, offering breakfast, lunch, and dinner, ensuring you can enjoy this exceptional dining experience at any time. And for those looking to make their weekends extra special, Contessa’s famous bottomless Sparkling Weekend Brunch is back every Saturday and Sunday. Indulge in a delightful flow of bottomless prosecco, bellinis, and mimosas while munching on an array of dishes from their delicious menu. Want to elevate your experience even further? You can opt for bottomless champagne instead of prosecco, adding a touch of extra luxury to your weekend brunch.

Contessa is a masterclass in high-end dining done right. It’s the kind of place where you go to savour life’s finer pleasures, one beautifully crafted dish at a time. Whether you’re celebrating something big or simply indulging in a weekday treat, Contessa turns any meal into a memorable event, proving that dining can be as much about the journey as it is about the destination.

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