Experiencing la vie en rose – Toulouse
Why go?
Known as ‘la ville rose’, life is rosy in Toulouse. The city is constructed from pink bricks that glow in this sunny corner of south-west France. Surrounded on all sides by water, the city’s cobbled streets weave their way down to the River Garonne, where locals sun themselves in summer. Despite being France’s fourth largest city, Toulouse has the feeling of an overgrown village with sausages sizzling on street corners and the best cassoulet and foie gras served in every café.
What to do?
Local markets are a must-do while in Toulouse. At 119 years old, the Victor Hugo market (marchevictorhugo.fr) is famous for its gourmet offerings. Try Maison Garcia sausages, cheeses by Xavier and Betty, and Gimm confectionery. Nearby is a smaller but equally tasty Le Marche des Carmes, offering fantastic views of the rooftops of Toulouse.
For a cultural fix, visit Basilique Saint-Sernin, the largest surviving Romanesque church in the world. Built in the 11th and 12th centuries, it was an essential stopping point on the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route. Inside lies the tomb of St Saturnin (Sernin), whose act of martyrdom was to be tied to a bull and dragged through the streets.
From here stroll to Place du Capitole – the heart of the city. Its square is dominated but the city hall, displaying paintings by Toulouse-born artist Henri Martin in its grand chambers. Explore the boulevards that snake out from the square and wander towards the river. Pont Neuf offers a spectacular view on the way to modern-art gallery Les Abattoirs (www.lesabattoirs.org).
Hire a bike and cycle through the city’s cycle points and along the Garonne banks lined with food, art and craft stalls at the weekend.
Where to stay?
Stumble out of light, spacious bedrooms with gorgeous views to freshly baked goods and lashings of home-made jam at Sylviane Tatin’s Loges de Saint-Sernin (www.dormiratoulouse.net).
For opulence, Hotel de l’Opera is Toulouse’s finest address with sumptuous rooms overlooking the Place du Capitole (www.grand-hotel-opera.com).
For a riverside setting try the Hotel des Beaux Arts by the Garonne (www.hoteldesbeauxarts.com).
Where to eat and drink?
For regional cuisine with a meaty focus try Chez Carmen for nose-to-tail eating.
Chef Pierre Lambinon is causing a stir at Le Py-r (www.py-r.com), transforming ingredients like foie gras and succulent scallops and pigeon into an art form.
For a taste of the region’s famed cassoulet, try Le Genty Magre (legentymagre.com) but leave room for waffles for dessert.
How to get there?
Airmalta flights operate to Toulouse airport daily with a stopover in Frankfurt or Munich. €200 each way.*
Ryanair operate to Marsielle twice weekly with flights on Mondays and Fridays. €100 each way. A 3.5 hour train journey (€50) will take you from Marseille to Toulouse.
*Flights at these prices may vary.
For more information log on to www.toulousedefrance.com.