Osijek – the hidden Croatian jewel

Why go?

Situated by the river Drava, just 20km form the Serbian border, Osijek does not have the glittering Mediterranean coastline that some associate with Croatia. But, with a history that includes prehistoric settlements, Roman ruins and Austro-Hungarian opulence, the city certainly doesn’t lack attractions.

The break-up of Yugoslavia brought war to the region, but 20 years later the city is back on its feet. Reawakened by tourism, it is ready to show off it culinary and cultural charms to the world.

What to do?

Tvrda, with its crumbling Baroque architecture, old centre and medieval fort, retains an otherwordly charm. Scale the ramparts for a view across the Drava, then pop into the small art gallery below, where you’ll find an unexpectedly fascinating exhibition of shells from the world’s rarest sea creatures.

Nearby, the Franciscan Church of Elevation of the Holy Cross opens on appointment to showcase its delicate interior. In contrast, the stark yellow façade and Ottoman-inspired turrets of St Michael’s Church are best appreciated from outside.

Have a coffee in the central square, then view the Roman and Neolithic finds in the Archaeology Museum and the Museum of Salvonia, positioned at opposite ends of the square.

Follow Europska Avenija, lined with parkland and colourful Secissionist mansions to the Upper Town, where the Gallery of Fine Arts holds a selective collection of Croatian and international pieces.

The shopping district nearby is home to the city’s towering brick cathedral, and across the street the Croatian National Theatre stages ballets and operas.

Osijek is situated in one of Croatia’s wine regions, Baranja, so take a drive, or a taxi, to one of the cellars that welcomes visitors. Belje, which will soon have a hotel on site, produces a fascinating grasevina blend made from regular and late-harvesting grapes. Josic has a cost tasting bar, where you could spend hours – try the cuvee, a blend of cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir.

Back in the centre, watch the sun set as you walk by the river or cross the pedestrian bridge for a view on high of this historic city.

Where to stay?

On the banks of the river Drava and towering, 14 floors high, renovated Hotel Osijek (www.hotelosijek.hr) is the city’s mod-con, high end option – rooms offer sweeping views of the surrounding area and on the top floor there is a Turkish bath and hot tub. Secessionist-era Hotel Waldinger (www.waldinger.hr) has recently been restored to its former glory – the 14 rooms have whirlpool bathtubs and there are period touches to the interior design, such as stained glass ceiling window and original artwork.

Where to eat and drink?

Pick up the essentials for a picnic at the farmer’s market in the upper town; you can stock up on fresh cow’s milk cheeses, cured meats, vegetables and local wines.

Sink your teeth into a multilayered cream cake at the Hotel Waldinger’s café, or for something more nutritious, visit the rustic cellar restaurant which serves Slovenian classics including soups, sausages and grilled meats.

Zoo Hotel (www.zoo-hotel.com) located on the opposite side of the Drava from the city centre, has views over the water and specialises in game dishes. Try roasted venison served with bacon studded dumplings and gravy, or wild boar. Sip on grasevina and tuck into grilled carp, pasta and meat platters at Kod Ruze (www.omina-osijek.hr). Atmospheric and inviting, the interior is filled with bric-a-brac such as old sewing machines and a singing troupe will serenade you with Slavonian folk music.

Similar entertainment can be found at the Jovic winery, where you can hum along with the locals whist feasting on flavourful rooster paprika stew or grilled sausages.

How to get there?

Air Malta fly direct to Zagreb on a regular basis.

Oijek is a two and a half hour drive from Zagreb.