The revamped industrial city of Linz

Why go?

Industrial, drab, bland – whatever people used to say about Linz certainly doesn’t apply now. Named European Capital of Culture in 2009, Linz has reinvented itself as a city of the future – albeit one that keeps a foot in the past. Once home to Anton Bruckner and Mozart, their musical legacy lives on here. Baroque splendor is joined by cutting edge architecture, interactive modern art and science museums, and plenty of leafy green space. Visit in summer for the many outdoor music, film and literature festivals.

What to do?

Linz’s Hauptplatz is an enormous market square in the Alstadt – wander through it weaving in and out of the arcades housing boutique shops, cafés and restaurants. The Baroque architecture, in candy floss hues of creamy yellow and soft pink is complemented by the mint green of the Old Cathedral.

Then head west to the Schloss Museum (www.sclossmueaum.at ).  A former castle by the Danube, it houses a collection ranging from fine art to archaeology. Nearby 8^th century Martinskirche is the oldest church in Austria.

Back in the cobbled old town, spot the former homes of Mozart, Bruckner and scientist Johannes Kepler and then follow the Landstrasse, the main shopping street, south.

Until October, Offenes Kulturhaus (www.ok-centrum.at) is showing an exhibit that allows visitors to cross a series of temporary walkways constructed over the rooftops of Linz buildings – including one through the bell tower of the fomer Urusline monestary.

The Botanischer Garten is Linz’s answer to Kew, boasting greenhouses full of exotic plants and butterflies. On the banks of the Danube, discover the city’s contemporary side – the Lentos Kunstmuseum (www.lentos.at) houses a collection of modern art, while at the interactive science museum Ars Electronica Center (www.aec.at) you can participate in exhibits, such as controlling a computer with your thoughts of cloning a plant. Hop on the tram up to Postlingberg, a hill overlooking the city, to watch the sun set, then return for a classical concert at Brucknerhaus (www.brucknerhaus.at)

Where to stay?

Get a taste of Linz’s modern art scene without leaving your hotel room – Hotel and Loft Landgraf (www.hotellandgraf.com) boasts open plan apartment-style rooms with bright colours and sleek furnishings.

Next door to the New Cathedral, Hotel am Domplatz (www.hotelamdomplatz.at) has a spa and fitness area.

Where to eat and drink?

Bakeries are everywhere in Linz, around every corner you’ll find one selling the famous Linzer Torte, a lattice cake of nuts and redcurrant jam, made to a 315 year old recipe.

K und K (www.kuk-hofbaeckerei.at) is a cosy old bakery in which to try it. Brandl (www.baeckerei-brandl.at) is a more modern spot, as is Gragger (www.gragger.at) which also does Linzer biscuits. The torte crown however goes to Jindrak (www.linzertorte.at) which has been open since 1929 on Herrenstrasse – pop in for a slice or take a cake to go.

If you’ve scaled Postlingberg, reward yourself with a cold glass of most, a frizzante cider, and soak up the views from the terrace at Postlinberg-Schlossl (www.poestlingbergschloessl.at). A grand old dame, its décor is frozen in time but the menu features seasonal dishes.

Restaurant Verdi (www.verdi.at) perched on an equally idyllic hilltop a short drive from the city centre, is the city’s best – sip on grüner veltliner and enjoy modern regional and European classics like Wiener schnitzel.

Fusion is the theme at Herberstein (www.herberstein-linz.at) where you can expect to see tuna and tapioca on the menu as well as venison.

For local cuisine hit Promenadenhof (www.promenadenhof.at)