Maple syrup and fun-loving cities | Montreal

Why go?

A hedonistic city to the core, Montreal is a place where people love to eat, drink and enjoy life. The largest French-speaking city in the world after Paris, this Canadian hub has a distinctly European flair – meals are taken long and late, the young population is ethnically diverse and the art and music scene is among the best in the country. The food is fantastic all year round and with the warm summer weather come numerous festivals, including the Jazz Fest and the Just for Laughs comedy fest.

What to do?

Start in Old Montreal, the historic quarter located on the harbour, where 19^th century buildings now house boutique art galleries, restaurants and shops. The Pointe-à-Callière museum (www.pacmuseum.qc.ca) offers a fantastic multimedia presentation on the history of the city, but if you want something more indulgent Finnish spa Scandinave (www.scandinave.com) offers the best massages in town. Pop into the Notre-Dame basilica, then take a stroll along the banks of St Lawrence river, once the city’s lifeline, until you reach Place Jacques-Cartier.

If you venture outside the old centre you’ll find Place-des-Artes (www.laplacedesartes.com) a venue for the July festivals, and the quirky Museum of Contemporary Art, (www.mmfa.qc.ca) just north of the city’s main shopping street Saint Catherine, houses excellent and varied exhibitions.

Stroll up St Laurent Boulevard (known as ‘the main’) to the Plateau area – it boasts eclectic trendy shops, restaurants and flats with the city’s idiosyncratic outside staircases.

Further north in Little Italy, explore the Jean Talon market (www.marchepublics-mtl.com) where Quebec producers come to trade and Marché de Saveurs des Quebec (www.lemarchedessaveurs.com) which stocks local ciders and wines. Fondly referred to by Montrealers as ‘the mountain’ (never call it a hill!) Mount Royal is the city’s green space from its diminutive summit at 233m you’ll have a sweeping view of the city.

On Sundays there are music and art gatherings, known as ‘Tam-Tams’ in the park, so make sure you pack a picnic.

Where to stay?

Furry fabric and monochrome colours are the order of the day at Hotel St Paul (www.hotelstpaul.com), a sleek boutique hotel in a historic building in Old Montreal. Downtown rooms at Le St Martin (www.lestmartin.com) boast good views and fireplaces.

Where to eat and drink?

Start your morning munching on maple syrup and pecan cinnamon buns at Olive et Gourmando (www.oliveetgourmando.com) in Old Montreal. In the Plateau, Beauty’s (www.beautys.ca) is a city institution – order the ‘special’ bagel sandwich with smoked salmon and an Oreo milkshake. You have to get up early to beat the queues at Schwartz’s (www.schwartzsdeli.com). The iconic deli opened in 1928, specialising in smoked-meat sandwiches.

After scouring the Jean-Talon market, head to tiny Kitchen Galerie (www.kitchengalerie.com). Mathieur Cloutier is chef, waiter and entertainer as he prepares the market-based menu from local produce including Quebec foie gras. Recently awarded Relais & Chateau Grand Chef, Jerome Ferrer of Europea (www.europea.ca) combines French technique with Quebecois ingredients – cookery classes run during the day. In the former industrial quarter Le Local (www.restolelocal.com) serves punchy food in a bustling setting; tuck into grain-fed veal.

Soak up the Plateau’s vibrancy at one of its bars – L’Assommior (www.assommoir.ca) offers 250 cocktails. Sip your way through Les Cavistes’s (www.lescavistes.com) by-the-glass wine list and feast on succulent bison bavette. Desserts rule at Les 400 Coups (www.les400coups.ca) - order the ‘green’, the establishment’s popular deconstructed dessert and you won’t regret it.