Treasures of a Lithuanian port

Why go?

A Baltic city through and through, Kaunas has relied for centuries on the two rivers that frame it. From them the city’s eclectic history of domination and defeat, booming industry and economic downturn has flowed.

Having thrown off the shackles of Communism in 1989, Lithuania’s second largest hub has found a new lease on life as a tourist destination. The best time to visit is in late summer, when a host of festivals run late into the long, long nights.

What to do?

Located between the Neris and Nemunas rivers, at the spot before they merge and start winding towards the Baltic Sea, Kuana’s old town is marked by the ruins of a castle and a large park in which locals gather for picnics on summer days. The central square, Rotušes aikšte, boasts the town hall, restaurants and a nearby Jesuit monastery.

Wander along Vilniaus, the main cobbled street, where cafés spill onto the sidewalks and people chatter over beers.

Small, brick-built St Gertrude is one of the oldest churches in Lituaina. Laisvės Alėjais the main pedestrianised street of the new town. Its eastern end is marked by the blue and white Church of St Michael the Archangel.

The eternal flame and Lithuanian crosses surrounding the Freedom Monument here mark the country’s interwar independence.

For something different, pop into the Devil Museum, an odd but amusing collection of over 3,000 devil-themed scupltures.

Symbolist art lovers will love the MK Čiurlionis Museum (www.ciurlionis.lt) which houses a large collection of Baltic artists’ work.

Take a ride on the restored Žaliakalnis funicular, which still contains parts from the 1930s original. It takes you Lithuania’s largest church, a striking vision in white which, during the Soviet era, functioned as a radio factory.

During the Second World War, Lithuania’s Jewish population was almost woped out; around 80,000 people are thought to have been killed at Ninth Fort. This former concentration camp is a short taxi ride from the centre; pay your respects at the museum here or visit the memorial in the Kovno Ghetto, the former Jewish quarter.

The PažaislisMonastery (www.pazaislis.lt) at the city’s eastern edge hosts an annual music festival until the end of August.

Where to stay?

Situated just where the old town merges into the new Santaka Hotel (www.santakahotel.eu) has 92 rooms decked out in solid oak and paintings from Lithuanian artists. There’s a pool and sauna, and the front dest staff are exceptionally helpful.

Hotel Kaunas (www.kaunashotel.lt) is centrally located on the main drag of Laisvės Alėjaand serves a generous buffet breakfast. Its downstairs café is always popular in the evenings.

Where to eat and drink?

Follow the flow of the locals in the mo9rning and head for the bar stools at Spurginėon Laisvės Alėja – the ladies in this unassuming retro café have been serving sweet and savoury doughnuts since Soviet times; the marmalade filled version is a classic.

Feast in a wealth of traditional Lithuanian cusine such as kvass (a fermented drink made from bread) cep mushroom soup, herring, cepelinai (dumplings) and šaltibarščiai (chilled beetroot soup) at Bernelių Užeiga(www.berneliuuziega.eu). There are a few located in the city, but the one at K. Donelaičio gatvės 11is the most atmospheric. On a Thursday you’ll catch some traditional Lituanian folk music and dancing.

Classic dishes are presented in a more refined light at Sadute (www.sadute.lt), a restaurant and wine bar in Rotušes aikšte. Here the šaltibarščiai comes in a martini glass and the bread ice-cream is particularly good – plus it has the city’s best wine list by far.

Brewery Avilys (www.avilys.lt) on Vilniaus offers light, honey-brown brews alongside a menu of hearty dishes such as beer soup with hop butter.

Wind down after a big meal at Kavos Klubas a cosy coffee and wine bar on Valančiaus gatvė.

Sample smanaė, a strong traditional grain spirit at the restaurant in Hotel Kaunas, where you can also sample authentic offal dishes.