A flight to Po(pe)-land

What follows will be the first of a series of blogs that will probably resemble travelogues as I expect to cover a lot of air miles in the coming months. So buckle your seat belts and let me proceed to say why I loved my holiday in the wonderful city of Krakow, the second city of the country that is currently presiding over the European Union.

“My country is experiencing a second Golden Age” I overheard one Polish student claim, as he energetically led a free tour in one of the streets in the Old Town. Indeed Krakow is the place to go if you wish to inject yourself with a dose of feel-good.

While statistics reveal that the gap between the rural and urban parts of Poland is widening, cities like Krakow are booming. Poland is said to be the only EU country that has managed to keep its head out of the last economic recession. In fact, one can almost walk and breathe the optimism. However, my positive tourist experience in Krakow may be attributed to a number of factors.

We booked an unpretentious three-star boutique hotel that had excellent online reviews. Upon arrival we were pleasantly surprised to find that it compared to most four-star accommodations. It was located a short walking distance away from most sites and still it did not cost the earth. In the Old Town, pedestrians share the cobbled roads with electric cars and horse-drawn carriages, which contribute to the city’s charm.

Of course,one admires the history and the gardens, the museums and the churches but I mostly appreciated its highly-educated people; generally kind, courteous and warm. From the cab driver to the shop owner, they may struggle with foreign languages but they still do their absolute best to deliver. And I loved the food, especially the quaint restaurants along Poselska street where one eats well at a fraction of what one pays elsewhere.

The stay was stress-free and the reason was not merely that we were switched off for the holiday. The forests, the clean air and beautifully landscaped built environment were an instant relief. Although this city receives millions of tourists, one still does not feel trapped and herded.

Organized tours to the Wieliczka Salt Mines run like clockwork. People get organised into linguistic groups and amazing crowd management ensues,even in the height of the summer season whendaily visitors exceed 7,000. The guide at the Auschwitz and Birkenau Memorial spoke with emotion but softly,out of respect for the victims of these infamous Nazi camps. It was a life affirming visit and an eye opener on the dangers of racism and ethnocentrism. Immortalised in the 1993 Spielberg classic, Schindler’s Factory was turned into another museum that documents the plight of Poles and Jews under Nazi occupation and it is a reminder that one person can make a difference. Oskar Schindler did not change the course of history but he did save some people who later wrote about their close shave with history.

Next to Schindler’s Factory is a new building that houses the Museum of Contemporary Art. It is a rather bare structure, which implies that Krakow’s contemporary art scene is still in its infancy. To me it was a sad reminder of broken promises; Malta’s mature contemporary scene is still homeless. So we still cannot go anywhere to appreciate artists like George Fenech who sadly passed away this week.

Popeland is in Krakow; you feel this as soon as you land at John Paul II Airport. Many of the city streets and gardens celebrate the life of the beatified Pope. A memorial marks his life in Krakow, his achievements, his perspectives and his poetry. “Do not be afraid” is the theme chosen for all things related to Wojtyla. Submission to fear facilitates repression. The people of Krakow know all too well what that means.

The Wawel Cathedral is dedicated to St Mary but the feast of August 15th was a sober and a spiritual affair. Yet outside, on Market Square it was business as usual: the lush green plants and flower baskets outlined the boundaries of various bars and coffee houses; people basked in the warm sun; buskers playing anything from folk music, to the cymbals; there was a variety of dancers, puppeteers and  other performers. You walk, look and move on. “Please do not give money to children. Do not rob them of their childhood” warned one leaflet; adding “If you wish to help,donate to charities”.

In case you are wondering why I wanted to shower all this praise on Krakow, give your suspicious mind a rest. This is not a solicited piece; there were no free rides and no free lunches. And I am not even friends with Michael O’Leary or with someone from the Polish Tourist Authority. I wrote this with trepidation as we were heading home on the return flight: Will the Polish passengers be as satisfied with my country as I was with theirs?

I always feel good when I discover a stress-free zone I would happily return to. Next time you need a break from the bells, yells, smells and the gemgem, take a break and go to Krakow. Lie down on the grass on the banks of the Vestula river with a good book and hope that the sun shines.