Ionian island hopping – a reality as awe-inspiring as the myth

Why go?

Travelling from island to island in the Ionian Sea makes it easy to see where the inspiration for Greek mythology came from. The sight of the uninhabited, hilly islands covered in olive and Cyprus trees rising up from the sea, the screeching sound of the cicadas and winds that pick up and drop in minutes provides an empty canvas to the imagination.

Hopping around the islands has always been popular as the islands have something to offer to everyone. Secluded beaches that dot the islands, the dramatic cliffs of Paxos and the forgotten mountain villages of Lefkas provide a perfect paradise for the laid back traveller looking to leave the stress of everyday life behind. The abundance of figs, tarts, olives, feta cheese and wholesome stews provide perfect comfort food.

What to do?

On Kefalonia, rent a car and drive around the island stopping at Mirtos beach, which the islanders will tell you is the nicest beach in Europe. Though it might not be number one, it certainly comes close to the top with white sands and crystal clear waters.

The picturesque Fiskardo at the Northern tip of Kefalonia is one of the few harbour villages left undamaged during the great earthquake of 1953 that ruined most of the historic buildings in Kefalonia. Stroll along the moll and take in the traditional fishing boats tied alongside the luxurious yachts that are attracted to Fiskardo for its tranquil beauty.

Experience the extraordinary wind phenomenon in the traditional fishing village of Vassiliki in Lefkas. Rent a windsurfer or dinghy and sail the flat waters in a tremendous wind that picks up every afternoon after a perfectly still morning. Club Vassiliki (www.clubvass.com) offers complete watersport holidays with great nightlife in the evening.

Visit Skorpios island, private island of Greek billionaire Aristotle Onassis and the site of his wedding to Jackie Kennedy. Though the island is seldom visited by the family, their staff remain on standby. It is prohibited to get onto the island, though the waters surrounding it are open to the public, and are breathtakingly beautiful.

Corfu Town is more cosmopolitan than the rest of the islands, with influences from the French and the English. It is an eclectic mix of old tavernas, new clubs, discos, and shops of all types. The spectacular old town is protected between two fortresses.

Antipaxos is a tiny uninhabited island off of the larger Paxos but is worth a trip to enjoy the unspoiled beaches and the island’s surrounding waters.

Where to stay?

The best way to see the Ionian islands is from a yacht. If you can take your own boat, that is a luxury that is well worth the time and effort. Alternatively, hire a boat from the many charter agencies (www.sailingionian.com) who organise bareboat charters (without crew), skippered yachts, informal flotillas, assisted sailing or sailing courses.

If yachting isn’t your thing you can still enjoy the islands, with ferries leaving the major ports regularly throughout the summer. Though the Greeks seem to know when the ferries come and go it is best to download a timetable beforehand (www.ionianferries.gr).

The Corfu Mare (www.corfumare.gr) in Corfu Town is a reasonably priced “art hotel” with recently refurbished and somewhat funky rooms.

When visiting Paxos stay at the boutique hotel Torri e Merli (www.torriemerli.com), a beautifully modernised Venetian manor with an infinity pool set among the olive groves and semi-subterranean bar. Don’t miss the fabulous Greek breakfast of spinach pies and lemon cakes.

The Pavezzo Country Retreat (www.pavezzo.gr) in Katouna in Lefkas is a delightful getaway, high in the hills and is chic yet rustic. Although it only does simple suppers the local taverna is good and lively.

Where to eat and drink?

The islands are dotted with olive trees, and are famous for their olive oil. There are some estimated 300,000 olive trees on the island of Paxos and have some of the best olive oil in the Mediterranean. Don’t leave the island without some to take home.

Despite being surrounded by the sea, many restaurants serve only frozen fish and will not warn you unless you ask. Gaios harbour on Paxos is abound with cafés, bars and restaurants, Mediterraneo, tucked away under the trees offers the best pasta dishes on the islands, with, surprisingly scarce, fresh fish and seafood.

For traditional Greek cuisine, try Tassia Taverna (www.tasia.gr), in the picturesque Fiskardo. Tassia Dendrinou has not only published her own cookbook but is now the host of traditional Greek cooking programme and has hosted celebrities such as Tom Hanks.

Follow your nose to The Greek Steak House in Sivota on Lefkas. The aromas of the suckling pig, cooked on a spit in a log oven waft across the bay and the pork tastes as good as it smells. The traditional kleftiko is also worth a try. According to legend, the meal was made with lamb stolen from a flock grazing on the hillside. It was cooked for hours deep in a hole in the ground that was sealed with mud so that no steam could escape and give the thief away. Today, the dish is cooked in paper to trap the moisture creating a mightily tender dish.