Rich history, cream and butter | Rouen

Why go?

The setting for history’s most female martyrdom; the inspiration behind a host of dreamy impressionist masterpieces and the haunt of many French 19^th century writers (Flaubert’s notorious Madame Bovary lived nearby), all overlooked by a majestic Gothic cathedral. That’s Rouen in a nutshell. Normandy’s capital has charm, beauty and a dynamic culture that has drawn artists, writers, political figures and curious tourists for centuries.

What to do?

Naturally, any tour of Rouen must begin at its striking Notre-Dame Cathedral; one of France’s largest. Its chiselled Gothic and Renaissance exterior is fascinating – no wonder Monet painted it over 30 times from the former Bureau des Finances across the street (now the tourist office). Inside are towering flying buttresses and tombs of the Norman dukes and Richard the Lionheart.

To the cathedral’s north is the exterior of the Archbishop’s palace, where the trials and convictions of Jeanne d’Arc took place in absentia. The remains of her prison – the restored Tour Jeanne d’Arc, near the railway station – are worth a visit, although the part of the building where she was housed only exists as a few ruins at 102, Rue Jeanne d’Arc.

Rouen’s cobbled, pedestrianised streets are lined with half-timbered houses – there are about 2,000 of them still standing, some dating back to the Middle Ages.

The opulent Gros-Horloge is a large clock above the western gateway to the old Roman town, dating from the 16^th century.

Stroll from here to a cluster of 15^th century private townhouses decorated with splendid bas carvings. Dripping with Gothic ornamentation, the Palais de Justice is in the former Jewish quarter and, under the courtyard, Sublime House is the oldest Jewish monument in western Europe.

The 1970s structure in the Old Market Square contains the city’s modern market and the Sainte-Jeanne-d’Arc church, built on the spot where she was executed in 1431 – next to the church is a monumental cross marking her sainthood.

Musée des Beaux-Artes has a fine collection of French works, including one painting from Monet’s Rouen Cathedral series.

To the city’s east, visit Saint-Quen Abbey – the organist plays haunting music during the Mass services.

Check out the building where author Gustave Flaubert was born in 1821, now a museum at 51, Rue de Lecat.

Where to stay?

Built in the 15^th century, Hotel de Bourgtheroulde (www.hotelsparouen.com) is the city’s most glamorous hotel; traditional rooms boast original Renaissance details, while modern bedrooms are available for those who prefer more streamlined surroundings. There is a spa with hamam – Turkish steam baths – and the restaurant, l’Aumale, serves well-prepared, locally sourced dishes such as roast pigeon.

Stay in a 17^th century timbered house – Aunay Philippe’s three-room B&B on Rue aux Ours is an intriguing place, decorated with miscellaneous antiques and curiosities.

Where to eat?

This being Normandy, you can expect to dine out on lots of butter, cream and seafood – and more than a few apples. Supposedly the oldest inn in France, dating back to around 1345, La Couronne (www.lacouronne.com.fr) is an atmospheric time warp; you can hardly see some of the walls for all the signed photographs of celebrities who have dined here, from Salvador Dali to Princess Grace of Monaco. The dishes are a little dated, but it serves a very correct Norman cheese platter, with oozing Camembert and pungent Neufchâtel.

One of the city’s finest, and located on the bank of the Siene, Gill (www.gill.fr) puts all the typical French ingredients into modern cooking; there’s Brittany lobster, veal sweetbreads, roasted piglet or the multi-course truffle menu.

Le Quatre Saisons (www.hotel-dieppe.fr) is a favourite restaurant to indulge in traditional caneton a la rounnaise, a theatrical dish of pressed duck, served with a sauce of duck blood, foie gras, cognac, red wine and butter.

Pick up cocoa-dusted “tears” of Jeanne d’Arc and all sorts of apple and Calvados-based sweets at Chocolaterie Ausou (www.auzou-chocolat.fr).