Bedouin values with mod cons | Oman

Why go?

Oman is no Dubai but the proudly independent Gulf state of Oman seamlessly mingles ancient and modern, a realm of rosewater, frankincense and honey, where Bedouin values are mixed with modern luxury.

There is a historic inevitability to this cultural fusion. Conquered by Persians, Ottomans and Portuguese, Oman’s identity has not changed since the dawn of Islam when it became home to Ibadism, a sect distinct from the two main Sunni and Shia branches.

At the old Mutrah Souk you can buy frankincense, burnt over coals, it is used to mask cooking smells, freshen robes and perfume the elevators at the luxury Al Bustan Palace hotel. Equivalent to extra virgin olive oil it is made from the first resinous sap extracted from a gash in the trunk of boswellia sacra, a tree that grows in Dhofar in the south and ranges in price from a few rials per kilo for the lowest quality to a small fortune for the greeny-white pebbles of Hojari.

The Sea of Oman is ultra-rich in its own way: yellowfin tuna, kingfish, albacore, red mullet, bream, grouper, garfish, prawns and abalone are landed sparkling fresh and change hands for very little money. A bagful of crabs with another bag of crushed ice, to keep them fresh sells for a couple of rials (just under €4).

What to do?

Lounge around on the pristine beaches where the white sand is caressed by the sea’s crystal blue waters at the Al-Daymaniyat Isalnds Nature Reserve. The reserve has a rich natural heritage and is replete with several kinds of coral reefs, including some that are quite rare, making it one of the most beautiful diving locations in the Sea of Oman. The islands are home to a large number of sea turtles that lay their eggs and nest there, as well as a magnet for migratory and indigenous birds.

The Wakan village sits 2,000 metres above sea level in Wadi Mastal, 150 kilometres from the capital Muscat and can only be reached by 4X4 vehicles. The moderate summer temperatures and the low winter temperatures offer ideal climates for agriculture including grape vines, pomegranates and apricots as well as legumes. Take the 700 steps up the mountain to the observation towers that look more like castles with umbrellas.

There’s a traditional market for everything. Al Husn Souq specialises in handicrafts while Al Hafan Souq in gum and incense. You can also find a range of textiles, clothing, silver, gold and jewellery at this market. Pick up traditional daggers or copper artefacts at Bahala Souq where you can also pick up some Omani sweets.

Where to stay?

Live the Bedouin lifestyle in luxury at Desert Nights Camp. Just a two hour drive from the capital, out into the desert, refresh yourself with cold towels and relax in the Omani styled majlis and enjoy Omani dates and traditional Arabic coffee. Then make your way to one of the 30 luxurious Bedouin style tents for the ultimate desert adventure vacation.

Check your aura and chukra balance at the Al Nahda Resort (www.alnahdaresort.com) and Spa to get yourself on the road to healthier, fitter you. This five star resort offers fitness classes and physiotherapy in conjunction with a variety of culinary specials and a selection of adventure experiences.

Where to eat?

There was no restaurant culture in Oman before oil. Omanis are now opening restaurants everywhere with a blend of Arabic, Indian and European cuisines.

At Ubhar at Bareeq Al Shatti Mall, the cuisine is as creative as it is tasty. The Middle Eastern cuisine offers a touch of lightness owing to the skill of chef Kenza.

Enjoy the atmosphere at Kargeen (www.kargeen.com) as the fine dining restaurant becomes over crowded with shisha smokers in the evening; some of the shishas have an over-the-top exuberance about them, flavoured with melon and coconuts. The fresh juices and mocktails are excellent.

As you might imagine at the White Coral Seafood and Grill, grilled fish is the speciality, however there is also a private “tearoom” where Arabic meals are served and, with notice, the chef will prepare shuwa – a traditional Omani meal where a whole sheep or goat is marinated in spice and baked underground for 48 hours – for parties.

How to get there?

Emirates fly Oman with a stopover at Dubai Airport. Flights to Dubai are approximately 7 hours while the Dubai – Muscat leg takes 1 hour. The price for a return trip next week costs approximately €750 (prices are subject to change)