Colourful history and romantic hilltop castles | Bratislava

Why go?

Often overshadowed by it neighbours Vienna and Budapest, Slovakia's capital, Bratislava may be modest in size, but certainly not in stature. Roman ruins, colourful Baroque buildings and a proud populace hint just how important this city has been to European history - after all, it is at the most prominent place on the Danube, where the Carpathian Mountains meet the Alps.

In December there is a chill winter nip in the air, but a stroll around the 100 or so stalls that form the Christmas market is sure to warm you up.

What to do?

Towering on a hill above the Danube, with unbeatable views of the city is the landmark Bratislava Castle, a hotchpotch of architectural styles, from its 11th century foundations to the Queen Maria Theresia's 18th century alterations. A fire destroyed much of the castle in 1811, but it has been sympathetically restored and now contains the Slovak National Museum (www.snm.sk).

Head down to the Old Town and to St Michael's Gate, the last standing tower of a quartet that once guarded the city; there is a modest Museum of Arms inside. Nearby you'll find what is supposedly the narrowest house in Europe, at only 130cm wide.

Explore the twisting side streets, which are framed with archways, and crammed with shops and cafés fronting elaborate pastel-coloured façades. Don't miss the fantastic wall painting on the side of the house on Biela Street - it leads you to the Main Square, which is the centre of the city's elegant architecture.

Embassies stand in dignified grandeur; to the left you'll find the Primatial Palace (its striking pink exterior may be the attention-grabber, but don't miss the collection of English tapestries on the inside).

Mirabech Palace boasts an impressive interior - soak it up as you pursue its collections of Baroque paintings and sculptures.

For the largest, most focused collection of art in the city, visit the Slovak National Gallery (www.sng.sk).

Head for the fountains at Hviezdoslav Square and to the Slovak National Theatre (www.snd.sk) where you can catch a Christmas performance on The Nutcracker.

Meander through the city's new districts, where you will see socialist-era architecture and the Secessionist St Elisabeth's Church.

Stroll by the river and cross Apollo Bridge - a symbol of Bratislava's ambitions for a modern future, a fitting way to wrap up your tour.

The Christmas market takes place in the Main Square; sample traditional dishes including Cigánska pečienka (roast pork in a bun with onion and mustard) lokše (potato crepes stuffed with goose fat, poppy seed or cabbage) mulled wine and hriatô (warm plum brandy topped with fried fat)

Where to stay?

Five star Kempinski (www.kempinski.com) is a 10 minute walk from the Old Town and has a spa overlooking the Danube on its top floor, there is also an Asian-Slovak fusion restaurant.

With a prime location near the Presidential Palace, Hotel Tatra (www.hoteltatra.sk) has basic, well-kept rooms.

A hotel has occupied the Radisson Blu Carlton (www.radissonblu.com) since 1837, maintaining its 19th century elegance.

Where to eat?

For a small city, diversity certainly isn't lacking: modest places to eat and sit comfortably nest to extravagant restaurants.

Slovak dishes are hearty and filling, perfect for winter - think dumplings, soup and heavy sauces. Visit a traditional Pressburg restaurant which mixes Slovak, German, Jewish and Hungarian culinary traditions, and try bryndzové halušky (potato dumplings with cheese and bacon), roast goose, duck or suckling pig.

Prešburg (www.presburgrestaurant.sk) is a local favourite. Take in the view 85m above the city at UFO (www.u-f-o.sk) where you can dine on antelope tenderloin.

Sample sea bream, pike perch, veal cheeks, or home-made pastas Flowers Restaurant (www.flowersrestaurant.sk), which also has a collection of Slovak art. As with every Slovakian meal, round yours off with a glass of potent fruit vodka.

How to get there?

No carriers offer direct flights to Bratislava. However Air Malta offer flights to Rome where low cost connecting flights can be caught. Air Malta flights to Rome from 24 November 2011 returning on 30 November 2011 were priced at €169.31 at the time of going to print. Connecting flights to Bratislava on the same date were priced at €63.98.