The energy of Tokyo

Fashions begin to fade almost as soon as they are plucked from clothes hangers, and keitai (mobile phones) are traded up for each latest technological advancement. But even while throngs of tech-savvy, smartly styled Tokyoites trot through subway stations, there is a traditional side to this hyperurban cosmopolis, which may not be immediately evident.

What to do?

If it lives in the sea, it's probably for sale in the Tsukiji Central Fish Market, where acres and acres of fish and fish products pass hands in a lively, almost chaotic atmosphere. Everything is allotted its own area, and a quick scan of the loading docks will reveal mountains of octopus, rows of giant tuna, endless varieties of shellfish and tanks upon tanks of live exotic fish.

About 2246 tonnes of fish, worth over 1.8 billion yen (€12.5 million), are sold here daily. It's not unheard of for a single tuna to fetch an incredible around ¥20 million (over €200,000).

The auctions are not officially open to the general public, but if you are of a mind to go, you have to be there around 05:00 to see the action. Afterwards, you are free to visit the wholesalers market, and wander around the seemingly endless rows of fishmongers.

The proximity of this Shintō shrine, behind Sensō-ji and to the right, testifies to the coexistence of Japan's two major religions. Asakusa-jinja was built in honour of the brothers who discovered the Kannon statue and is renowned as a fine example of an architectural style called gongen-zukuri. It's also the epicentre of one of Tokyo's most important festivals, the Sanja Matsuri, a three-day extravaganza of costumed parades, some 100 lurching mikoshi (portable shrines) and stripped-to-the-waist yakuza sporting remarkable tattoos. Remarkably, Niten-mon, the gate that marks the entrance to Asakusa-jinja is the only structure in the temple precinct to have survived Asakusa's various disasters.

Just 100 kilometres west of Tokyo, in Honshu's central mountain region, rises 3,776 metres high Mount Fuji - called by the Japanese, Fuji-san (papa Fuji) - a dormant conical volcano. Generally considered to be the most beautiful in the world, it last erupted over 200 years ago.
Part way up the slopes is Lake Ashi (Ashinoko Yuransen), a typical crater lake abounding with black bass and rainbow trout that lies along the south-west wall of the caldera of Mount Hakone. Take a 1.8 kilometre ride on the Hakone Komagatake Ropeway, climbing 590 metres to the summit of Mount Komagatake, the journey providing spectacular views of Hakone and its surroundings.

Nikko is a small town nestled in the mountains of Tochigi Prefecture about 125 kilometres north of Tokyo. Set amidst a forest of cedar trees and surrounded by some of the country's most spectacular scenery, Nikko has been a sacred place since the 8th century, when a Buddhist hermitage was established here. Today, several shrines and temples are clustered around the town, the most outstanding being Toshogu, a Shinto shrine dedicated to the kami (spirit) of Leyasu, who founded the Tokugawa Shogunate, a military dynasty that ruled Japan from 1603 to 1867. 

Unlike most Shinto shrines, Toshogu is a riot of colour, gold leaf and intricate carvings, depicting birds, flowers, dancing maidens and sages. The Sacred Stable, where a white imperial horse is kept, contains the original carving depicting the three wise monkeys, "Hear no evil, Speak no evil, See no evil." 

Edo Wonderland, by Nikko National Park, is a vast theme park featuring a wide range of attractions enabling you to experience the customs, culture and society of the Edo period. Deservedly popular are the Ninja performances, which showcase a wide variety of combative techniques and displays of the use of tools developed by the Ninjas and the parade of the oiran (predecessors of the geishas).

Where to stay?

The Mandarin Oriental Tokyo, www.mandarinorientalhotel.com, is located in the historical and culture-rich Nihonbashi district within central Tokyo, just five minutes walk from the high fashion shops in Ginza. The hotel sits atop the impressive Nihonbashi's Mitsui Tower. All guest rooms are designed for luxury and inspired by Japanese aesthetics, offering contemporary serenity above a booming metropolis with unobstructed panoramic views of Tokyo skyline.

Located on the 25th floor of Shiodome Media Tower, overlooking the magnificent Tokyo Tower, the Park Hotel Tokyo, www.parkhoteltokyo.com, is in the flourishing new centre of business and culture in Shimbashi, at the south-eastern end of Ginza near Hamarikyu Park. An oasis of peace and quiet, in the midst of central Tokyo's urban jungle, the hotel offers extraordinary coordinated interior designs, the colour concept of which reflects a warm homely feeling.

The Peninsula Tokyo, www.peninsula.com, is located just a three-minute walk away from the shopping capital of Ginza, opposite the Imperial Palace and Hibiya Park. Inspired by Japanese heritage and contemporary elements, The Peninsula Tokyo offers commanding city views, luxurious comfort, sophisticated facilities, extraordinary dining options and the legendary Peninsula service.

Where to eat?

If you can splurge on only one Tokyo sushi experience, make it Kyūbey, www.kyubey.jp. Established in 1936, Kyūbey's quality and presentation have attracted a moneyed and celebrity clientele ever since, seeking incomparable quality and presentation. Go for broke with kaiseki a traditional multi-course meal or have it served on pottery by famed artisan Kitaoji Rosanjin. Otherwise just peruse the Rosanjin exhibition on the restaurant's 4th floor. Kyūbey continues to make headlines: in 2009, it bought at auction half of a single bluefin tuna that sold for a staggering ¥9.63 million (€97,000) and sold single cuts of toro from it for ¥2000 (€20).

Try Gonpachi, www.gonpachi.jp, the restaurant that inspired the Lucy Liu showdown in Kill Bill, though it was not where it was filmed. Though the menu is not authentically Japanese, featuring dishes like camembert tempura, the décor is undeniably Edo. Get your reservations in early for a booth on the second floor, overlooking the crowd below or check out the sushi room on the third floor, separate from the restaurant itself.

A wooden wall and a small garden enclose at Kandu Yaba Soba, a venerable buckwheat-noodle shop. When you walk in, staff singing out the orders is one of the first signs that you've arrived in a singular, ageless place. Founded more than 100 years ago, it's a handsome, free-standing wooden villa in its own tranquil garden courtyard with the feel of a traditional tea house. Kimono-clad waitresses bustle about, ferrying food and drink from kitchen to table (either with chairs or on tatami mats). Locals prefer their noodles cold, as zaru soba (plain noodles with a dip) or ten-zaru (the same with batter-fried shrimp).

How to get there?

Emirates offer daily flights between Malta and Tokyo with a stop over in Dubai. Flights departing from Malta on 2 August and returning on 16 August were priced at €1,346.10 including taxes at the time of going to print. Total flying time is approximately 17 hours.