Buenos Aires | Latin America's European city
Buenos Aires, the cosmopolitan capital city and gateway of Argentina, is characterised by its architectural beauty, cultural sophistication, the passion of tango dancing, and the warmth of its people.
With waterfalls and national parks in the north, glaciers and snow-capped mountains in the south and the Lake Districts of Brailoche in between, Argentina is a vast natural wonderland.
What to do?
Founded in 1580 as the city's first central plaza, Plaza de Mayo is the symbolic and physical center of Argentina's rocky history. The square's name commemorates the May Revolution (1810) that began Argentina's process of independence from Spain. Plaza de Mayo has seen it all - spirited crowds cheering as Evita shouted from the Casa Rosada's balcony, military bombings in 1955, the march of the Madres as they protest the 'disappearance' of their sons.
Standing before the rosy Renaissance-style Casa Rosada, you can easily imagine Eva Perón pontificating from the lower balcony. Construction began in 1862 on the site of Buenos Aires' fort, and the building was painted pink shortly after. Visitors marvel at the picturesque coral hue without realising the gritty fact behind it - at the end of the 19th century, ox blood added colour and texture to ordinary whitewash.
Wander for hours in the amazing La Recoleta cemetery where 'streets' are lined with impressive statues and marble sarcophagi. Crypts hold the remains of the city's elite: past presidents, military heroes, influential politicians and the rich and famous. Hunt down Evita's grave.
Argentina is the home of the tango. Visit the colourful La Boca, or barrio, home to Italian settlers from Genoa, for the colourful houses, and the pedestrian street, the Caminito, where tango artists perform and tango memorabilia are sold. The neighbourhood is home of the Boca Juniors football team, one of the best in Argentina.
You might find a gaucho getting rowdy in one of Buenos Aires' peñas (music clubs), but if you want to see some real silver spurs and leather chaps you'll have to head for wide open spaces. The flat, rolling countryside of the Pampas surrounding the capital is dotted with estancias where you can encounter cowboy culture and gallop into the sunset astride an Argentine thoroughbred, and sit around the fire while they light the parrilla and barbeque a huge variety of cuts of beef you've probably never heard of.
Travel north to the Argentine side of Iguazu. The park has plenty to offer, and involves a fair amount of walking. Walk along the 2.5km walkway over the falls to the Garganta del Diabolo (Devil's Throat) where the falls come to a crashing climax. You may see a few capuchin monkeys along the way. Check out the falls from the water where a speed boat actually takes you underneath the falls - make sure to use the plastic bags provided for electronics as you are going to get wet.
While in Argentina take in some sports, with a football game or a polo match - two of Argentina's most popular sports. Or try some adventure activities of your own with great deals on paragliding, horseback excursions, skiing, snowboarding, glacier trekking, hiking, rafting, mountain biking and popular nautical activities such as canoeing and kayaking.
Where to stay?
Magnificent architecture and classic decoration has placed the award-winning Alevar Palace Hotel - www.alvearpalace.com - in a class of its own, making it a reference point among luxury hotels around the world. The Alvear Palace Hotel is recognised worldwide for its unparalleled combination of hospitality and personalised service. The essence of the hotel, its history, elegance and caring and dedicated staff guarantee a remarkable experience for everyone who visits.
Take some time out of the busy city to spend a few days relaxing at a local estancia. El Rosario de Areco - www.rosariodeareco.com.ar - just an hour and a half out of the city centre, is a 19th century colonial house run by an Argentine family where their boys still raise and train polo ponies. Relax by the pool, eat and drink to your heart's content or try your hand at polo with the pros, after which you can retire to done of the sixteen suites scattered around the ranch.
Take a trip further north to the Brazilian border and spend a few days at The Shearaton International Iguazu Resort - www.starwoodhotels.com. Situated in the heart of the Iguazu national park, rooms have views of the impressive Iguazu falls. Have breakfast on the terrace and take in the sights and sounds of the waters crashing down into the Devil's Throat.
Where to eat?
A bright, upbeat eatery, Cumana is one of the only places in town serving traditional dishes from far-flung provinces of Argentina. The hearty criollo (Spanish/Indian) cuisine baking in the adobe oven includes locro, a thick corn-based stew made with meat and vegetables. Don't miss the humita, a creamy cheese and corn mixture wrapped up in corncob leaves.
Campo Bravo is a chic parrilla (grill restaurant), a relaxing place to tackle a huge steak or a pasta dish during the day, though at night it's a very different beast indeed. While the staff remain cool, on a busy night you can wait up to an hour for a table - it's the price you pay for hanging with the most stylish crowd in Las Cañitas.
Eating at dirt-cheap Desnivel is a rite of passage. The convivial parrilla atmosphere is buoyed by deadpan waiters, a mix of hungry locals and eager tourists, the skill and speed of the overworked guys on the grill, and - of course - the affordable beef, sizzling provoleta (grilled provolone) and fried empanadas.
How to get there?
Emirates offer daily services to Buenos Aires with a stopover in Dubai. Flights departing from Malta on 19 September and returning on 12 October were priced at €1,198.21, including tax, at the time of going to print. Total flying time is approximately 26.5 hours.