Scoglitti | The small Sicilian fishing village with a generous heart

The wide use of the internet has made planning holidays so much simpler than it was in bygone years. So much so that when we think of holiday destinations we tend to think big and go for exotic destinations trying to cross as much off of the travellers’ bucket list as possible. Though this is all well and good, we sometimes miss out on the simple holidays that require less planning and no expectations, which sometimes turn out to be the most relaxing and reinvigorating of all.

The small Sicilian fishing village of Scoglitti is one such example. Though perfectly accessible by plane or ferry and then by car, we chartered a sailing boat, Geisha with skipper David Pizzuto at the helm, and set sail with no real destination in mind – just a general direction towards good food and lazy days over a long weekend.

The best part is that travelling to your destination is just as fun as arriving there. Being out in the open seas for eight or so hours, and your mind switches off almost instantly. Think about it, lying on the deck wearing nothing more than a bikini, with a fruity cocktail in hand, the wind in your sails and dolphins splashing at the bow, how could you possibly even remember what seemed to be so pressing yesterday! There are no drives to the airport, inexplicable delays, queues, passport checks, restrictions on luggage or any of the stuff that sucks the fun out of travelling. You arrive at the marina, put your bags in your cabin, make yourself a drink and your holiday has started.

Scoglitti is a small, quiet, fishing village, just a little further north than it’s rowdier sister Ragusa. Having said that there is no shortage of things to do once you get there. Depending on the time of year you set sail, the first thing you will want to do is hit the local gelateria – every other establishment in the village sells ice-cream so you will not be disappointed by the selection – and nothing really beats a Sicilian ice cream. Or why not have a hot cup of tea at Art Café – they also serve ice cream if you can’t make up your mind.

A quick rinse at the showers at the pontoons (complete with hot water) and you’re ready for aperitivo time – almost every establishment selling ice cream now also sells negronis – while you discuss dinner plans. If you don’t know your way around, fear not – second in command, David’s dog, Bahri, knows all the best spots. As we walked by Sakalleo, the dog ran up the stairs and when we didn’t follow he just sat there waiting for us to change our minds. As it happens, Sakalleo was full that day, much to Bahri’s dismay, but we did book for another evening and was the dog right about restaurant choices! No menu, the only questions you are asked are do you want meat or fish? And do like raw fish? (Answering no to either question comes with condescending looks of disgust, so just go with it.)

What makes Scoglitti so wonderful is the generous nature of the townsfolk (the rose-tinted glasses that accompany you on any holiday also helps). Walking down the street one morning I glanced at a man unloading tomatoes out of his van. When he saw me look his way he called me over and gave me a bunch of tomatoes to take with me (at no charge). One other evening I saw a painting hanging on the wall at a restaurant and fell in love with it. I walked out of the restaurant stuffed to the brim carrying the painting (which also came at no charge) under my arm!

Truth be told, Scoglitti itself is pretty small and there is not too much to do – save eat – around the town if you’re staying for a few days. However if you don’t intend sailing or swimming every day, you can easily hire a car or some bicycles and check out some other towns in the vicinity.

Modica is a pretty little town not too far from Scoglitti. Wander around the lazy town, checking out the incredible fresh fruit for sale from huge Sorrento lemons, blood oranges, while the scent of heirloom tomatoes fills the air. Climb the stairs to the Duomo di San Giorgio to work up and appetite and check out the views of the entire town. Make your way to Osteria de Sapori Perduti, often recommended by locals. The food is simple, cheap and above all delicious. Try their pasta dishes that come in a thick broth with meatballs – mine were horsemeat. 

Drive around the countryside and look out for agroturismos for great simple food in a superb environment. We happened to wander into a sleepy town called Vizzini, where everything seemed to be shut, save one bar in the piazza, where locals suggested the agroturismo in the valley, just a short walk away. Simple dishes, made with their own ingredients and some house wine that was good enough to go through more than we should have for an average lunchtime!

Getting there?

To charter Geisha costs €450 for a day trip including rent of the boat and a skipper. Overnight stays and longer trips, as would be necessary to go to Sicily, can be discussed. The boat sleeps five comfortably, adding another three if you don’t mind getting cosy. Contact David Pizzuto on 79497523.

Airmalta offer flights to Catania, from where you can rent a car or take a taxi to Scoglitti. Flights departing from Malta on 27 June and returning on 30 June were priced at €125.32.

Virtu ferries offer return tickets to Pozzallo for €112 (rate applies for June 2014; €144 from July to September) normal return (special offers apply to day tickets, returns on Sunday and four day specials) (www.virtuferries.com).