Rabat is ‘top of the rurals’ in ranking on traditional food

Rabat, Siggiewi, Żurrieq, Mosta and Ħaż-Żebbuġ in Malta have emerged as the top five villages whose populations are the most likely to have retained “rural food preparation and consumption habits”, a study by online journal Xjenza shows.

The ranking of 47 rural Maltese villages was based on the degree of exposure of their inhabitants to three main indicators, namely the number of part-time farmers, the number of sheep in small holdings, and the number of kitchen gardens.

Based on the same indicators, Santa Luċija, Mdina, Iklin and Xgħajra are at the bottom of the ranking order.

The study evaluated Malta’s different rural localities, ranked according to evidenced agricultural activities in small farming holdings, which are characterised by a degree of self-sustenance, and so more likely to exhibit traditional Maltese rural features, including a traditional food culture.

The ranking puts Rabat on top as it registers both the largest number of part-time farmers as well as sheep, while Siggiewi has the highest number of kitchen gardens.

One strong indicator of rurality likely to impact on food consumption patterns is the prevalence of kitchen gardens, the majority of which are run as a family concern, that directly supports the farmer’s household without producing a significant surplus for trade. The produce from these holdings is not sold at the official markets, as is normal practice with commercial agricultural holdings. It is also more likely that culinary traditions are transmitted from one generation to the next in homes which include a backyard garden.

Another strong indicator for the retention of rural food traditions is the number of part-time farmers. Since the number of part-time farmers far outnumbers that of full-timers, it was deemed to have a greater potential of influencing rural food culture than the number of full-time farmers who are also more likely engaged in commercial production.

In 2020, Malta’s 11,713 part-timers represented 87% of its total farmers. Moreover, part-time farmers are also the most likely to run kitchen gardens or to engage in backyard livestock farming.

The other strong indicator is the number of sheep and goats on small holdings that have less than 10 heads. These farms are linked to a backyard industry dedicated to the production of milk used in the artisanal production of cheeselets; an important element in several traditional dishes such as ravioli, qassatat, pastizzi, and torta tal-ġbejniet. Mutton, lamb, and kid meat are also an important component of food culture particularly during the Easter period.

The study does not refer to backyard rabbit production as this is not captured in national statistics, but it is also likely that localities with the highest number of kitchen gardens and part time farmers are also the most likely to rear most rabbits.

The study does not include urban localities like Sliema, Birkirkara and Qormi and was limited to localities with a population density lower than 5,000 persons per square kilometre; where 10% of the locality’s land area is dedicated to agriculture; and where 35% is designated as outside the development zones.

On the application of this definition of rurality, 47 localities were classified as rural, 33 in Malta, and 14 in Gozo. These 47 localities accounted for 91% of the islands’ territory and 64% of the total population.

The ranking of rural localities was made in a study carried out by George Attard, Francesco Luca Alexander from the University’s Institute of Earth Systems and Tony Meli from the Argotti Botanic Gardens and Resource Centre.

The paper is the first attempt to provide a guideline for selecting locations to evaluate production and consumption patterns of traditional Maltese food in rural areas. “Future studies on Maltese typical culinary culture should include these parameters for consideration in the identification and selection of locations to include in their research.”