Smokey Scamorza

Nothing beats the flavour of a good oozy, creamy, smelly The south of Italy is famous for its Scamorza cheese. From the mozzarella family, the semi-soft white cheese, which is similar to a provolone in shape, is made throughout Apulia and in some parts of Campania and Molise.

The cheese is made from pasteurized cow’s milk or from a mixture of cow and sheep milk. The Scamorza made in Bari is made primarily with sheep’s milk.

The process by which it is made involves stretching and moulding the curd that has been ripened for about 24 hours. The future cheese is then cooled in cold water and put in a brine bath for a period that varies according to the weight of the individual cheese.

The process of stretching the curd and allowing it to mature in its own whey allows the acidity to develop by the process of lactose being converted to lactic acid.

The end result is drier than mozzarella, but is equally as smooth and shiny in texture. At the end of the cheese making process, the cheeses are hung together in strings to ripen for about two weeks.

The process of ripening the cheese has given Scamorza its name, which in southern Italy means ‘beheaded’.

Scamorza cheese, though similar to mozzarella, has a more piquant flavour and has less moisture

After two weeks of ripening, the cheese is sold as it is or smoked. The smoked variant, called Scamorza Affumicata, is made by smoking the cheese over flaming straw for around 10 to 15 minutes.

A fresh version of Scamorza is also sold within a few days of production.

The texture of Scamorza is elastic, stringy and has less moisture than mozzarella. In addition, the flavor is more piquant, milky and creamy. Smoked Scamorza has a subtle, smoky flavor with a sweet, light caramel note.

Scamorza is used as a substitute for mozzarella as it imparts more interest in the recipe. Since Scamorza has excellent melting qualities, it is best known to flavor baking dishes, for griddling or topped with prosciutto for extra zest.

The smoky flavor of Scamorza pairs well with oak-aged Chardonnay, Pinot Girgio or Orvieto.

Scamorza is generally eaten fresh or smoked, with the latter having a lovely gold outer layer, which makes an excellent table cheese that is also great when used in cooking.

Scamorza can be substituted for mozzarella in most dishes as can any other cheese but the resulting taste will be much stronger and more dominant. It is reputed to melt better in baking. Using the smoked variety adds a nice background flavour in replacement of mozzarella.

Scamorze allo spiedo is a very old dish in which small scamorza cheeses are threaded on spits that revolve over a wood fire. During the cooking process, the cheese takes on an amber color and the interior becomes creamy and buttery.